Wales - Aberystwyth

Martin loves trains. We always have to stop and watch them pass. Something in the click clack of the wheels and the whistle of the engine stirs some emotion rooted presumably in his childhood. Luckily, British television has several great train travel series through which we can explore vicariously, possibly with better views than we could have in person. But it wasn't a surprise when, shortly after Christmas, he arranged for us to take a train ride. The destination was also predictable. Wales has factored in his and his family's history for generations and the landscapes and myths of this ancient place have always spoken to him. Shrewsbury is tantalizingly close to the border so we boarded the train bound for the seaside town of Aberystwyth. It's also a university town with

January on the Welsh coast is cold and windy but the seascape is breathtaking. In addition to the colorful facades on the promenade and the fascinating mix of architectural styles in the town, the windswept ruins of a 13th century castle overlooks Ceredigion Bay. It was refreshing to be by the water after our weeks in our cosy, rented "cave" in town and we explored the ruins and wandered leisurely through the town marveling at the Victorian orderliness and graceful design of the buildings lining the shore. We came across the Information Center and were happily surprised to discover that, above the center and shop, is a restored Victorian theater which was well used in its time as a performance space as well as a cinema. It has since been converted to the Ceredigion Museum and boasts a huge collection of Welsh artifacts from the area's long history as a farming and fishing community. On each level of the viewing balconies, there were carefully curated displays of furniture, tools, and historic artifacts that kept us thoroughly engaged until it was time to catch our train.